Presume you mean to strip Tin/Lead that has been reflowed.

This is tough stuff to strip, and suspect that it may be pretty thick in the
filets.

All around, the best chemistry for this application is the
biflouride/peroxide type that is the original type of stripper used back in
the days when the only thing that people stripped Tin/Lead from was connector
tips.

However, remember that this chemistry was designed to strip Tin/Lead that has
not been fused (reflowed), and was at most 0.4 mils thick.   This is a piece
of cake to strip compared to  reflowed stuff.   This is because the
non-reflowed stuff is actually descrete chrystals of Tin and Lead, and as
such is not nearly as proof to corrosion, or stripping.

Incidently, this is one of the key reasons why PCB's were originally fused,
or reflowed, to alloy the Tin and Lead, and make it more corrosion proof.
 This, plus making it flow down on to the exposed Copper on the sides of the
traces.

Make real sure that you rinse the residues real well, and in fact putting the
board through a good aqueous saponifier after stripping, may not be a bad
idea at all.

Rudy Sedlak
RD Chemical

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