Presume you mean to strip Tin/Lead that has been reflowed. This is tough stuff to strip, and suspect that it may be pretty thick in the filets. All around, the best chemistry for this application is the biflouride/peroxide type that is the original type of stripper used back in the days when the only thing that people stripped Tin/Lead from was connector tips. However, remember that this chemistry was designed to strip Tin/Lead that has not been fused (reflowed), and was at most 0.4 mils thick. This is a piece of cake to strip compared to reflowed stuff. This is because the non-reflowed stuff is actually descrete chrystals of Tin and Lead, and as such is not nearly as proof to corrosion, or stripping. Incidently, this is one of the key reasons why PCB's were originally fused, or reflowed, to alloy the Tin and Lead, and make it more corrosion proof. This, plus making it flow down on to the exposed Copper on the sides of the traces. Make real sure that you rinse the residues real well, and in fact putting the board through a good aqueous saponifier after stripping, may not be a bad idea at all. Rudy Sedlak RD Chemical *************************************************************************** * TechNet mail list is provided as a service by IPC using SmartList v3.05 * *************************************************************************** * To unsubscribe from this list at any time, send a message to: * * [log in to unmask] with <subject: unsubscribe> and no text. * ***************************************************************************