I had one of those briefly, after being very frustrated with it while 
trying to splice some fine wires the thing suffered a fatal "accident"...

regards,

Graham Collins
Senior Process Engineer
Sunsel Systems
(902) 444-7867 ext 211

On 4/7/2013 11:23 PM, Blair Hogg wrote:
> And we also had these as well:
>
> http://science.howstuffworks.com/cold-heat.htm
>
> I think I have one somewhere, not sure since I don't remember ever using it. Interesting idea, but I don't think it was very practical.
>
> Blair
>
> On Fri, 5 Apr 2013 18:11:31 +0100, Mike Fenner <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
>
>> I have a couple of these, very handy for working on my old car and odd jobs.
>> The problem with them for anything serious is that the tip temperature is
>> not well controlled.
>> 1) The heat output from the catalytic combustion heater is not calibrated;
>> it can be set to anything. Probability is that it will end up on max,
>> because when things don't work in soldering that's what people do.
>> 2) the overall design is geared to a quick warm up, so there is little
>> thermal mass, this will allow big temperature variation with more than one
>> joint or if the work requires  long heat time because of its own thermal
>> mass.
>> 3) The bit is a screw on type and this gives poor thermal coupling
>> especially after some period of use.
>> The reason I have two, is that the first one had these problems in spades,
>> the second I paid a lot more for. It is better, so I can solder up my old
>> car wiring and stuff like that just fine. For circuit board work they make
>> me nervous.
>> Cordless irons tend also to go for a high temp, low mass, quick warm
>> approach.
>> Need to think in terms not just of temperature but the amount of heat
>> available. A lot of heat is not the same as a high temperature.
>>
>> So overall it means you would be putting a high premium on operator skill.
>> IT would be worth going to some trouble to avoid them.
>> For example low voltage irons that could run from a car battery.
>> Alternatively an inverter so you could use a regular iron.
>> Example: for my bush camping trips I just have a small inverter which
>> generates 140W mains output. It�s the size of a small apple and plugs in to
>> car socket and cost about 50USD. Probably less in USA. Saves buying a
>> separate charger for each piece of kit and doesn't become obsolete if I up
>> grade anything.
>> So one of those with a mains extension cord could do it I think.
>>
>> Regards
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: TechNet [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Gregg Owens
>> Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 3:38 PM
>> To: [log in to unmask]
>> Subject: [TN] Butane Soldering Irons
>>
>> Since we hand solder outside of the normal manufacturing floor, our
>> technicians are requesting to use a butane soldering iron. I have no
>> previous experience with this type of soldering iron. With a temperature
>> setting of 1076�F it seems rather high and potentially damaging to resulting
>> solder connection, insulation, people, etc.
>>
>> http://www.apexhandtools.com/brands/CF_Files/model_detail.cfm?upc=0371030609
>> 76
>>
>> Any thoughts from experience would be most appreciated.
>>
>> Gregg
>>
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