Hi Graham!

You would strip the whole board? There are wires already on some of these assemblies, that's been tacked down with RTV, and practically every assembly has socketed components, along with right angle interconnecting female sockets, wouldn't one worry about getting the stripping chemistry trapped inside these small areas?

I've heard more than just a few times that whatever chemistry works well in stripping urethanes, also poses a risk in affecting the laminate, and part marking...something that we can't afford even risking.

That's why I'm looking at spot removal. I've been looking at a CCR Company workstation, the same one that Jim Marsico has, and emailed him off-line with some questions. He really likes it.

Just wondering if anybody else has a system that they would like to share some details about with me, good or bad, off-line if need be.

As always, Thanks in advance!!

-Steve Gregory-


Hello friends, busy week so sorry for a late input.

I have only one piece of advice for Steve and others regarding repairs to Urethane based coatings – it is very difficult to return to a monolithic film as Urethane systems tend to laminate.

The repair coating will therefore need to be applied to a far wider area than that “spot” you fixed. It is possible that the ‘lamination” will be a path for ingrees of the stuff you are trying to keep out.

It is for this reason that Acrylics are more popular, because they will more readily return to monolithic film....and before anyone asks, no, you should not repair a urethane with an acrylic. The product has a coating that was carefully selected and qualified. Same generic type but different supplier MIGHT be OK, but you MUST check this with the originator.

Our route in this situation is to fully strip using a suitable solvent stripper bath – clean, repair, re-clean and then re-coat. It is easier and it looks better.

Hope this helps