Message
Charles,
I was hope someone would have an official IPC
approved solution for this... oh, well, here are un-official two methods I used
before:
(1) use UV cured epoxy with white filler.
I used some alumina filled UV epoxy and cured use UV spot curing equipment (we
make them, so it is free for me) to mark my parts. You would need epoxy to
get good adhesion to the solder mask (also made using epoxy material) and
survive for all the chemical attack, like high temp, IPA, etc. etc.. You
would also need a strong spot curing equipment, not the dental lamp
stuff.
(2) use the marker as you use right now =
black, and add a thin UV coating right on top of the marker. I used some
good stuff (optical grade) before. Since you do not need that much, the
cost is minimum. I use the left over from optical group, so it is free for
me again ;-). We use brush coat (only 1 cm long in my case, for cover the
S/N). Warning: you may need "horse" or "hog" hair ESD approved brush... do
not steal your wife's make-up brush... it may cause poisoning effect to the UV
material (not to your wife, of course). One drawback, it is somewhat
reflective when you direct shining the light on the coat (like conformal coat,
but a bit rigid), if you need machine vision to view the marker, you may have to
make sure to choose the right stuff or change your machine vision color
(another story... ).
Hide your stamp and brush from UV light and
clean them on time..you can't clean the stuff off after expose to UV= it is
permanent....Make sure you stamp the right part, you can not rework them after
UV cure... The white UV epoxy got work life of 48 hrs (you would
need -40 C storage)... no need mixing at all (it is called pre-mix
frozen). The color is not very strong = it is not designed as a ink
material, but visible (depend upon how much detail you want in your
stamp). The coating I used need to be stored at 10 C (just like your beer
or Doug's Mountain Dew), it is special mil approved material (non-epoxy).
(note: we do not make any UV epoxy or
coating... But, if you want to try, contact me off line).
jk
We usually use a label (
Brady ). Rarely have a problem with it coming off or fading through wave,
alcohol or aqueous. And it is faster than stamping.
Charles
Caswell
You might check Willard Marking. We use their Will-Mark PCB ink, but we
don't send it through flux or cleaning processes, so I'm not sure if it will
work. They are out in California. Phone number 800-924-0911.
Help please, We are looking for
a board stamp (for assembly rev. letter) that will not wash off with flux
(or alcohol) when it goes through wave solder
machine. Insta Mark 126 from our board house (used for electrical
Testing washes off with flux.
We prefer not to use an epoxy
(messy, time consuming mixing)
Thank you,
Dave Chapman
Manufacturing Engineer
Circuit
Service Inc.
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