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November 1999

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Subject:
From:
"<Joseph M. Webb>" <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
TechNet E-Mail Forum.
Date:
Thu, 4 Nov 1999 10:44:35 -0500
Content-Type:
text/plain
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text/plain (184 lines)
Louis,

If I understand the test correctly, the solder is allowed to phase change, and
then a quantity of RMA flux is introduced. My questions would be:

     Does the test allow the materials to be stagnant, flux atop the molten
solder?

     What is the amount of time between the solder melting (again, stagnant?)
and the introduction of the flux?

My concerns:

If the solder is allowed an opportunity to be exposed to the air for any
appreciable amount of time, oxidation will occur, would it not contribute to the
total quantity of dross present (based on this determination method). I also
wonder how, aside from convection (again if stagnant), the oxides present will
be introduced into the body of flux? Also, how does this qualitative method
distinguish the color change contributed by dross from the thermal breakdown
by-products that will occur within the organic component of the flux? Would not
an equivalent volume of flux under the same conditions, but without the presence
of solder, yield color changes as well?

I have no experience with this test, so I am certainly not questioning its
validity, I am just trying to understand the mechanism.

Regards,

Joseph Webb
TET Halco






"Louis, Edwin/@CSE" <Edwin.Louis on 11/04/99 10:07:10 AM

Please respond to "TechNet E-Mail Forum." <[log in to unmask]>; Please respond to
      "Louis, Edwin @ CSE" <[log in to unmask]>

To:   [log in to unmask]
cc:    (bcc: Joseph M Webb/ElecTec/Teledyne)
Subject:  Re: [TN] Bar Solder...




Alpha Metals has a test to check included dross. You take a 600 ml. pyrex
beaker and melt 1 pound of solder in it on a hot plate. Then you add an
amount of RMA flux, that amount I do not remember. If the flux stays golden
yellow you have no meaningful contaminate of dross in the solder. If the
flux turns a little darker or forms small areas of dark material, the dross
level is detectable but acceptable. If the flux turns completely dark then
the solder contains too much dross.

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Camac [mailto:[log in to unmask]]
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 9:52 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [TN] Bar Solder...


Steve,

Well, I guess with 2200 lb. of solder in the pot, it should take a long time
to get
your contamination level up.  I have mixed brands a couple of times over my
many years
at this.  I have never seen a problem.  This action was usually done when we
changed
vendors and we would just start introducing the new vendors bars during the
normal pot
replenishment.

Cheap solder - no such thing, your paying somewhere.  Have contamination
levels check
on a sample of what ever you consider.  I also like to melt a sample myself,
just to
see how much dross pops out of it. I don't need to buy dross - I can
generate all I
want by myself.

Gary Camac


Stephen R. Gregory wrote:

> Hi ya'll!!
>
> I'm gonna word this email very carefully, so I don't ruffle anybody's
> feathers...
> We're fixing to get a newer (used) wave solder machine to replace the
tired
> ol' Hollis we have now. The newer one is a Treiber with a 20" wide
conveyer.
> The guy we're getting it from asked me if I had plenty of bar solder on
hand,
> because the pot holds 2200 lbs.!!! Holy-moly! Reminds me of Earl asking
about
> how to empty a SEHO pot when the pot heaters went "kaput" on one of those
> beasts they hold a ton of solder too...(by the way Earl, HOW did you do
that?)
>
> But my question is; I'm gonna have to buy probably close to 1500 lbs or
more
> to charge the pot! Is there a problem mixing brands even though it's all
> supposed to be 63/37? I have my favorite brand that I use, but it's a
little
> on the pricey side, and not too painful to management when I only get 250
> lbs. every once inna while...
>
> But I know someone up front is gonna crap their pants when I tell them
we'll
> need to buy over $4,000 of solder to fill the pot up! I know darn good and
> well somebody is gonna ask if I can find some cheaper solder. I'd rather
> stick with what I'm using now, it's the brand I've always used and I've
never
> had any problems at all. But what if I mix brands? Tell me that I
shouldn't
> do that and give me some ammo...
>
> -Steve Gregory-
>
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