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January 1999

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Subject:
From:
"McMonagle, Michael R." <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
TechNet E-Mail Forum.
Date:
Fri, 8 Jan 1999 08:12:17 -0600
Content-Type:
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text/plain (141 lines)
Steve,
        Congrats! As mentioned previously, the Conceptronic HGR2000
would'a got the bugger off. Just tell the boss you need about $80k to
rework a couple of boards, hehehe. I've got to envy you to a certain
extent. Having worked in a small Sillycone Valley shop in my last life,
I also often had to play McGyver with baling wire and duct tape to make
things happen. It keeps your skills sharp and reminds you throughout
your career that frugality is a virtue (and often the only choice).
However, a little money never hurts too bad....

        In regard to putting it back, the nice designer didn't happen to
leave you room to redrill the locating hole in the proper location? What
do you mean you already cut off that useless locating tab?

Mike McMonagle
PCA Process Engineering Supervisor
K*Tec Electronics
1111 Gillingham Lane
Sugar Land, TX  77478
(281) 243-5639 Phone
(281) 243-5539 Fax
[log in to unmask]

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stephen R. Gregory [SMTP:[log in to unmask]]
> Sent: Thursday, January 07, 1999 3:41 PM
> To:   [log in to unmask]
> Subject:      [TN] Assy: I CAN Rework this BGA Socket!
>
> Hey ya'll!!
>
>      SUCCESS! I was able to get that monster off!...(Now I just gotta'
> be able
> to get it back on right...hehehe) If you remember, the whole reason I
> had to
> rework it was because somehow they got the hole positions wrong in the
> board
> for the two alignment pins at the bottom of the socket, which caused
> the
> socket to be soldered one row off on the board. I'm still trying to
> get to the
> bottom of how that happened (I haven't forgotten your request Roger,
> still
> workin' the issue...).
>
>      But I called CTI this morning and talked to them about trying to
> rework
> this thing. I was told that they have heard of people reworking this
> socket,
> but it's pretty much been hit and miss, and trying this, or trying
> that. They
> said the one company that they know of who have got it down is SCI. I
> guess
> they build a lot of product that uses this socket and they've had
> their rework
> equipment modified to do this socket...you know, special preheater,
> nozzle,
> etc.
>
>      But, getting back to how I did it, it was a "Steve's start-up
> company
> mode special". Don't laugh too much, 'kay? Sometimes when you don't
> have all
> the things you want, you gotta make do with what you have...and I
> think if you
> use common sense, and take things slow, you can do just about anything
> anybody
> else can....maybe not as fast, but you can do it.
>
>      My rework system is one of them fancy Hakko 850's...you know, the
> full-
> vision (your own two-eyeballs), hand held unit. The nozzle I used was
> a 36mm
> square one that's normally used for QFP's...this one matched the basic
> shape
> of the pins in the socket. I had to take the cam lever, and the
> "Z-lok" cover
> off to expose more of the pin's surface to absorb the heat. I also
> used my
> trusty Fluke multimeter (it has a temperature function which you can
> plug a
> thermocouple into and see temps real-time) and threaded the tip of the
> thermocouple into the socket where it could tell me how hot it was
> getting
> down around the solder joints.
>
> I was pretty liberal with the flux bottle, and really coated things to
> help me
> with heat transfer. Turned the Hakko on and watched my Fluke. It took
> about
> two and a half, to three minutes for me to indicate around 210-220
> degrees
> centigrade inside the socket, and then I tested the socket with my
> tweezers
> gently at the corner to see if it would move, it moved easily, and I
> pulled it
> up without a hitch! Didn't even lift a pad!! YEEE-HAW! Not bad 'fer a
> in-gun-
> ear, huh? Usually, you don't want to let us get anything sharp or hot
> in our
> hands...(GRIN). The board had a little mole-hill where the socket was
> until it
> cooled back down and straightened out. The socket was actually in
> pretty good
> shape too, the plastic didn't degrade a bit.
>
> Now, I just gotta figure out how to get this puppy located back over
> the pads
> accurately without those guidepins, I gotta clip them off...I'll let
> ya'll
> know how that goes...
>
> -Steve Gregory-
>
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