----------
> From: Neil Maloney <[log in to unmask]>
> To: TechNet E-Mail Forum. <[log in to unmask]>; Paul Millington
<[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: Re: [TN] broken trace repair on VCR ciruit board
> Date: Thursday, May 07, 1998 8:16 AM
>
>
>
> ----------
> From: Paul Millington <[log in to unmask]>
> To: [log in to unmask]
> Subject: [TN] broken trace repair on VCR ciruit board
> Date: Thursday, May 07, 1998 12:33 AM
>
> Please help.
>
> Problem: Broken VCR circuit board from shock of computer monitor landing
> on top of VCR while moving electronics in car during rush-hour traffic
> (sudden stop.) Plus, it is my friends $1400 VCR that I broke. Circuit
> board broke into 2 pieces. Copper tracers(?) broke. Need to reconnect
> tracers.
>
> Picture: I have uploaded a picture of the broken board (now epoxied
> together) at http://www.digitalnebula.com/vcr.jpg You should be able to
> see the copper tracers as I have etched away all the green stuff, and
> epoxied the 2 halves together.
>
> Solutions: The only things I have found so far to fix it are "Pretinned
> solid bus wire", 24-gauge, $1.79 from Radio Shack, or a "Etch your own PC
> board" kit, $13.99, from Radio Shack also.
>
> Available tools: Radio Shack solder gun, wire strippers, and about $50.
>
> Questions:
> What is the best way to repair it?
> What is the most economical way to repair it?
> How should I do it?
> Is there a good Web site or manual out there that would help me?
>
> Thanks you for your help.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Paul Millington
>
>
> Boy, you really did it that time. VCR's don't bounce too good. From the
> picture I gather that the break in the PCB occurred on the front panel
at
> the corner under the cassette loading mechanism. If it is a Sony unit (it
> looks like one from the picture) you may be getting off lucky. Most VCR's
> that sustain a impact on the front side enough to break the panel usually
> shatter the cassette loading mech. (magnavox, Panasonic, Sharp and the
> like) Sonys are pretty tough.
> Did you say soldering GUN? Soldering guns put out at least 100 watts
> (the ones I have used) and can burn solder traces right off the board.
Use
> a soldering pencil 40w MAX. Get some liquid flux, 60/40 rosin solder (as
> thin as you can find it (.020 or .015)) and some wire wrappping wire. In
a
> pinch, you can use some PBX wire (wire used in telephone switch panels)
> Give yourself A LOT of time. You are now trying to raise the dead, and
any
> mistake you make is going to cost plenty.
> If you can, GET A SCHEMATIC! Any crossed or shorted wires can end
the
> game in a puff of smoke and a blown processor. I know that section of the
> front panel has only a couple of switches and LEDs, but LEDs use power,
> and the switches run RIGHT IN to the main processor. Can you say ZAP?
> After all the wiring is repaired, and TESTED, take a popsicle stick
or
> something similar, and epoxy it to the backside of the PCB. Button panels
> get pushed, so you will need a "splint" to back it up, or the pressure
may
> cause it to break again.
> I don't what the front panel bezel looks like, but if it is broken,
you
> will have a tough time finding a replacement quickly.
> If I sound harsh, sorry. In my former life, I spent 10 years as a
> consumer electronic tech. I had to do this kind of stuff every day.
>
>
> Good luck
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