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May 1998

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Subject:
From:
Neil Maloney <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
TechNet E-Mail Forum.
Date:
Thu, 7 May 1998 08:16:12 -0500
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From: Paul Millington <[log in to unmask]>
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: [TN] broken trace repair on VCR ciruit board
Date: Thursday, May 07, 1998 12:33 AM

Please help.

Problem:  Broken VCR circuit board from shock of computer monitor landing
on top of VCR while moving electronics in car during rush-hour traffic
(sudden stop.)  Plus, it is my friends $1400 VCR that I broke.  Circuit
board broke into 2 pieces.  Copper tracers(?) broke.  Need to reconnect
tracers.

Picture:  I have uploaded a picture of the broken board (now epoxied
together) at http://www.digitalnebula.com/vcr.jpg  You should be able to
see the copper tracers as I have etched away all the green stuff, and
epoxied the 2 halves together.

Solutions:  The only things I have found so far to fix it are "Pretinned
solid bus wire", 24-gauge, $1.79 from Radio Shack, or a "Etch your own PC
board" kit, $13.99, from Radio Shack also.

Available tools:  Radio Shack solder gun, wire strippers, and about $50.

Questions:
What is the best way to repair it?
What is the most economical way to repair it?
How should I do it?
Is there a good Web site or manual out there that would help me?

Thanks you for your help.

Sincerely,

Paul Millington


Boy, you really did it that time.  VCR's don't bounce too good.  From the
picture I gather that the break in the PCB occurred on  the front panel at
the corner under the cassette loading mechanism. If it is a Sony unit (it
looks like one from the picture) you may be getting off lucky. Most VCR's
that sustain a impact on the front side enough to break the panel usually
shatter the cassette loading mech. (magnavox, Panasonic, Sharp and the
like) Sonys are pretty tough.
    Did you say soldering GUN?  Soldering guns put out at least 100 watts
(the ones I have used) and can burn solder traces right off the board.  Use
a soldering pencil 40w MAX. Get some liquid flux, 60/40 rosin solder (as
thin as you can find it (.020 or .015)) and some wire wrappping wire.  In a
pinch, you can use some PBX wire (wire used in telephone switch panels)
Give yourself A LOT of time. You are now trying to raise the dead, and any
mistake you make is going to cost plenty.
     If you can, GET A SCHEMATIC!  Any crossed or shorted wires can end the
game in a puff of smoke and a blown processor. I know that section of the
front panel has only a couple of switches  and LEDs, but LEDs use power,
and the switches run RIGHT IN to the main processor. Can you say ZAP?
   After all the wiring is repaired, and TESTED,  take a popsicle stick or
something similar, and epoxy it to the backside of the PCB. Button panels
get pushed, so you will need a "splint" to back it up, or the pressure may
cause it to break again.
   I don't what the front panel bezel looks like, but if it is broken, you
will have a tough time finding a replacement quickly.
    If I sound harsh, sorry. In my former life, I spent 10 years as a
consumer electronic tech. I had to do this kind of stuff every day.


    Good luck

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