Just to put a cat amongst the pigeons, meteorologists measure the water
vapour content of the air as dew point (I point out, not Dewey!) as
being the only accurate method. This done with a thin metal mirror
thermally attached to a Peltier junction. A beam of light impinges on
the mirror at 45° and is reflected into a photodiode. A current passes
through the Peltier junction to heat it until the detected light reaches
a threshold value, then the current is reversed and the mirror is cooled
at, say, 2°C/min until the light beam diminishes due to dew forming on
the mirror and its temperature is accurately measured with a Pt100
resistance thermometer attached to it. This method is very accurate.
Conversion to RH is done through tables or an algorithm.
The next most accurate method is through a wet and dry bulb thermometer,
using Pt100 thermometers, with the disadvantage that daily maintenance
is required to ensure the reservoir is full of pure water and that the
sock is clean and moist.
Then comes capacitive sensors, consisting of two electrodes separated by
a hygroscopic dielectric. As water has an enormous dielectric constant
(permittivity), the more moisture absorbed, so the value of the capacity
increases.
The second least accurate method, and the one most commonly used for
electrical measurement, you have the resistive sensor, where the
resistance of a piece of plastic doped with a fairish quantity of an
organic hygroscopic substance is measured. This drifts after a couple of
years or so.
The least accurate and cheapest is the hair hygrometer where the length
of a hygroscopic fibre (originally human hair but now synthetic) acts
directly on the needle of a dial. This is not reliable or accurate.
I have a semi-pro weather system that uses capacitive sensors for both
inside and outside. The dew point is claimed to be accurate to ±1.5°C
between -76°C and +54°C, translating to ±3% from 0% to 100%.
No matter which system is used, it must be placed in an enclosure which
allows free access of the air being measured with no risk of a current
of air exceeding, say, 0.05 m/s. This is why double- or triple-louvred
housings are commonly used for professional use. For the electronic
types, these are usually shared with the temperature sensors, to avoid
errors from direct solar or other heat source radiation and they are
moulded in bright white plastic. I can say that, as I write at 10:00,
the outside temp is 15.6°C ±0.5°C and the dew point is 7.9°C ±1.5°C,
giving a RH of 58% ±3%. Fully professional weather systems would halve
the accuracy tolerances and would cost 20 times more! Similarly, cheapo
amateur systems can be obtained for 1/5th cost of mine and their
accuracy tolerances are never mentioned! The ratio of 100:1 from a <$100
amateur weather station to a >$10,000 professional one is very eloquent.
This ratio can also apply to humidity sensors.
As has already been pointed out, the unit for absolute humidity is g/m³
and the conversion AH>RH is temperature dependent. For applications we,
as production guys, are likely to need and encounter, the unit is
percent relative humidity at a given temperature.
Brian
On 08/03/2013 18:23, Robert Kondner wrote:
> Hi,
>
>
>
> As I start looking at humidity measurement devices I started to wonder if
> IPC humidity numbers are Relative or Absolute? Does anyone know off hand. I
> need to go buy some specs.
>
>
>
> I would have thought Absolute but the cardboard indicators are temperature
> sensitive as are the desiccant drying systems in dry cabinets.
>
>
>
> If the temperature is high, say > 100C then a part will "Bake Out"
> regardless of the absolut humidity, is that right?
>
>
>
> Bob K.
>
>
>
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