Hey,
It is very difficult to find PCB water cleaning supplies with the correct
fluoride contents to harden enamel! Besides, did YOU ever try putting salt
on the tail of a duck billed platypus?
On the serious side:
If someone does not trust established techniques for testing board
cleanliness then there is no point discussing it further.
Thanks,
Bob Kondner
-----Original Message-----
From: TechNet [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Stadem, Richard D.
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 8:30 AM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [TN] Hand Soldering
The advantage is that Bob will end up with 33% fewer cavities! :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: TechNet [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Douglas Pauls
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 7:08 AM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [TN] Hand Soldering
Bob,
I do not agree with your tap water analysis as you are comparing apples to
duck billed platypuses. That 10 micogram figure you quote is a completely
different animal. That is 10 micrograms of sodium chloride equivalence
per square inch of extracted surface. What this means is that it takes
that much sodium chloride to reduce the resistivity of a deionized water /
isopropanol solution from 6 megohm-cm to 2 megohm-cm. It has absolutely
nothing to do with the actual amount of sodium or chloride on the assembly
itself. It does not relate in any way to the conductivity or hardness of
the cleaning media.
I am glad your Water Pik works well for you. You are obviously thorough
in your rinsing and understand the consequences if you don't. If it was
me, though, I would use deionized or distilled water rather than tap
water. I spent 8 years at CSL troubleshooting manufacturing processes,
many of them based on water soluble fluxes, and found that tap water is a
poor cleaner, hence my comments. I did studies of the water purity around
the US and around the world as part of that work. It varies tremendously.
Doug Pauls
Rockwell Collins
Robert Kondner <[log in to unmask]>
Sent by: TechNet <[log in to unmask]>
09/08/2010 04:32 PM
Please respond to
[log in to unmask]
To
[log in to unmask]
cc
Subject
Re: [TN] Hand Soldering
Bob,
Try a "Water Pick" from a drug store, I got one at Walmart. I use it
after
rework of a small part, it really blasts water under parts. I fill the
container with hot water and blast under small SMT parts. For complete
board
wash I use a spray assembly like found on a kitchen sink.
This is ok for protos but a real washing system would be suggested for
production. It takes a long, good, hot spray to get under BGAs. For QFNs
forget it, you can not clean under those parts. Cleaning solutions are a
big
help.
Also:
I did not see any comments on my analyses of using tap water. Even with
500mg / L dissolved solids tap water it takes a good number of small drops
to push towards the 10ug/insq limit. A 1mm drop (1/2 sphere) per 1 inch sq
is only .25 ug/insq. It would take 40 drops per inch square and THAT is a
lot of tap water. A quick blow off with an air gun leaves much less.
Bob Kondner
-----Original Message-----
From: TechNet [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Bob Landman
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:18 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [TN] Hand Soldering
We switched to water-soluble Kester brand and are very satisfied with it.
Hot water and a good brush (we use a dish washing brush).
Bob Landman
H&L Instruments. LLC
On Sep 6, 2010, at 6:30 AM, Kenneth Wood wrote:
> Hi all.
> What is the best setup for hand soldering as far as solder / cleaner?
> Rosin core? Water soluble? No-Clean?
> What cleaner too?
>
> I've been using rosin core with various cleaners but I have a hard time
with
> the white residue the cleaners leave.
>
> Thanks
> Ken
>
>
>
>
>
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