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Subject:
From:
Werner Engelmaier <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
TechNet E-Mail Forum <[log in to unmask]>, Werner Engelmaier <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Thu, 10 Jun 2010 14:34:05 -0400
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text/plain (570 lines)
 Hi, 
Are we sure it is the bond and not the wire itself that is breaking? We eed to know whether we are dealing with Au or AlSi wire.
Been working on a wire break case.
Werner

 


 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Mahanna <[log in to unmask]>
To: [log in to unmask]
Sent: Thu, Jun 10, 2010 1:13 pm
Subject: Re: [TN] LED wiring bonding


I forwarded some optical pictures to Steve.

Steve, you're welcome to post them.

Chris



-----Original Message-----

From: TechNet [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Victor Hernandez

Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2010 8:04 AM

To: [log in to unmask]

Subject: Re: [TN] LED wiring bonding



Fellow TechNetters:



   Was anyone able to provide a photo(s) of this LED bonding issue.



Victor,



-----Original Message-----

From: TechNet [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Steven Creswick

Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 5:32 AM

To: [log in to unmask]

Subject: Re: [TN] LED wiring bonding



Chris,



I get the shivers when people say they have a bond lift, because my instinct

tells me the process was not where it should have been, but there is still

room for optimism.  



If properly bonded, and subsequently torn or sheared apart, I expect to see

a good deal of viable intermetallic beneath the bond.  If there is little

sign of intermetallic formation, there was little bonding taking place -

read as not a very good bond in the first place.



By analogy, if one is crafting with wood and gluing panels together with a

good glue, then subsequently breaks the panel - the break should occur

somewhere other than at the glue line.  The glue should be stronger than the

wood.  As it is with wire bonding.  The bond should be stronger than the

wire itself.



Regarding the blue dye.  Not sure of the specific mold compound being used

[you could at least ask to see the data sheet ...], but it has been my

experience that the amount of dye used is actually extremely little.  I

doubt that it would have significant effect on CTE, but you could be on to

something.  Normally one tosses in a bunch of fumed silica, etc to help

control CTE.  This doesn't do too well for maintaining light transmission,

however.  I would also check to see if the clear and blue were actually

cured the same way, etc.  That may have more effect on the result than the

pigmentation alone.



If you have intermittent bonds due to delamination, etc.  sometimes you can

simply press on the device and get it to work again.  You might also try a

bit of gentle heat/cold - say refrig to room, etc.  Am not a fan of the

freeze spray stuff.



Wire necking will come about after many temp cycles - aka hundreds depending

on temp limits.  It had better not occur after 1-4 reflow cycles!



I may also have a pic of delam if Vlad can not locate his.



Best wishes,



Steve Creswick

http://www.linkedin.com/in/stevencreswick







-----Original Message-----

From: Chris Mahanna [mailto:[log in to unmask]] 

Sent: Monday, May 10, 2010 10:33 PM

To: TechNet E-Mail Forum; Steven Creswick

Subject: RE: [TN] LED wiring bonding



Steve,

Awesome.  Now that you've walked me through it, I think our customer has a

mixed bag- some bond lifts and delam, all damaged by excessive soldering

excursions.  I guess maybe part of my question was whether delam was a

latent defect from poor bonding.?  Haven't found significantly necked down

Au wires yet.

Do you think they can get significantly better CTE, Tg out of blue lenses?

On our job, the blue had half the failure rate of the clear, even though

they are rated the same for soldering.  BTW they are both really Ir

emitters; clear lenses with the better spectrum.



Thanks for the help.  I will certainly try to get permission to post the

pictures.  I'd like to see Vladimir's SEM image.  Is there further FA to be

gleaned from SEM?



Thanks Werner!



Wayne, yes I believe that was the official blame game from the component

manufacturer.  What do they look like when you burn them up?  I'd expect to

see burnt plastic too.??



Chris   



-----Original Message-----

From: TechNet [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Steven Creswick

Sent: Monday, May 10, 2010 6:49 PM

To: [log in to unmask]

Subject: Re: [TN] LED wiring bonding



Chris,



Ahh!  Something I can help out with.



A great deal depends on the package structure, obviously wire bonding

process control, and whether it is Au or Al wire.



Wire bonding defects are rare, if the materials and process is under

control.



The caveat is that Pb-free reflow temps may cause extra expansion in the

molding compound as the material goes above it Tg during reflow/s.

Many/most clear mold compounds have Tg's in the <135-155°C range.  Can't put

silica in there to help modify the CTE...



Moving mold compound during temp cycles can often break the bond wire near

mid-span.  The wire will actually neck down to the shape of an hour-glass

funnel as it stretches. ... then breaks.  Oops.



You can also get bond lifts, but if that is the case you may also see

delamination from the bonding surface.  Hard to describe what it looks like

other than to say that you can see an air-gap there..  If you don't see the

delam, one just may have a poor bond.



You can also shear the ball/bond off the die, but many times one will place

a low modulus material on top of the chip to mechanically de-couple from the

higher modulus molding compound in an attempt to alleviate this.



First thing to do is x-ray to find where the discontinuity is.  If that

fails, then move on to selectively polishing the device down so that you can

see inside clearly.



I have been known to take a really tiny 0.010-0.015" dia drill bit in a pin

vise to gain access to the interior for dye testing to check for

delamination [but that can be classified as destructive - although certainly

illustrative!]



Lastly, it may also be possible to shear the die off, but like you, I would

look at the wire first.  A quick look at the bonds can often tell you if

they are over bonded, or something was moving during bonding.  Once you get

it polished flat, you may be able to get a reasonable picture.





Steve Creswick

http://www.linkedin.com/in/stevencreswick







-----Original Message-----

From: TechNet [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Chris Mahanna

Sent: Monday, May 10, 2010 5:49 PM

To: [log in to unmask]

Subject: [TN] LED wiring bonding



It's all LEDs these days!



We have an FA that shows poor wire bonds to GaAlAs/GaAs in microsection

after assembly.  The failure is seen in the parts per hundred across

different lots and slightly different part numbers of LEDs.

The assumption would be that LED wiring bonding defects are very rare.   Is

there something particular about these?  Or is it the crimping and/or

Pb-free assembly that is pulling them apart?

The ones that seem more susceptible are GaAlAs  Double Heteros.



Thanks.



Chris





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