Bill:

There is some trade off with time and temperature (longer at lower temp & quicker at
higher).  I'm assuming that these are populated boards with components that can't
withstand the cure cycle.  In your position, I'd try baking a touched up board at 180
to 200 F for up to 2 hours.  If this doesn't achieve a complete cure, extending the
cure time or passing the assembly through a paste reflow cycle or an epoxy dot cure
cycle should complete the cure.  A couple of cautions: make sure your components can
take the heat, apply thin coatings of the mask, and don't skip the oven cycle before
the solder temperature cycle (you have to drive off the solvent).

Just as an aside: in my experience SR-1010 is one of the best adhering masks.  If you
specified it over reflowed solder, all bets are off - it will peel or wrinkle with
larger features more than small ones.  Otherwise it sticks through conditions that LPI
masks can't tolerate.  If the later is the case, I'd question the fabricator about
possible contamination under the mask.

Good Luck.
Don Vischulis
[log in to unmask]

"Kasprzak, Bill (esd) USX" wrote:

> To all 'netters:
>
> Making a long story short, I have a board where some solder mask has peeled
> off.  The board vendor sent me some SR1000 solder mask to touch up the
> boards. The spec for the stuff says that the material must be cured at 300F
> for 60 minutes.
>
> Since I'm having a h*** of a time getting tech support on this stuff, does
> anyone know if this material can be cured at a lower temperature?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill Kasprzak
> Moog Inc.

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