Hmm, Steve, doubt we have to worry about that perceived sanity prospect yo
talk about,
working in field clearly proves our current state ,
let's focus on the subject, being greazey mechanic : seen surfaced sheets
cut :
(v grove lead line helps) , would cost yo a grand to set :
O
O
____________________________>
O O
You have two sets of high (clear the componentry)t.carbide blades,
lower set free wheeling on base, both level,
upper set
first lead wheel set touch higher as a leading/marking wheel,
second wheel is lower as a drag/cut wheel .
Sets exactly above each other, 1/8 blades,
say pending your max height 1-2" dia ?
Both sit in side or straight ahead U frame (cast preferably - no flex).
This configuration ensures yo straight line of action,
+ lead wheel is relatively blunt, drag wheel sharp.
Both low wheels are slow geared on same motor, may need long 1/2" shafts,
tops are individually micro height adjustable :
for electronic applications you may cut in 2-3 gentle passes,
industrials have gradual sets of blades cascading down to touch .
You have a side lead edge.
If you'd be really pecky (like me), you'd gear the top blades as well,
as it makes for even intake of the sheet . Not quite essential.
The edge profile makes a difference with V grove cut already,
the lead wheel should equal wedge and cut,
that is angle of blade should equal angle of v grove for guided lead.
The U frames are by tones in industrial seconds for peanuts.
apey huntin' mate
(wonder what Kelly's chewing lately, when's the wild turkey season over
there?)
Noo, not the overproof one.
paul
ps
seen in an ancient (modernized) lithographic atelier,
where i replaced Sheffield high carbon blades with tungsten:
separating etched guilded copper plates ready for press,
after tempering that is .
(not quite a guillotine job)
= don' ask where to find it (make it)
Lemme know if it's too gibberish
Oh ye, the golf, tigers, coke, lawyerish movies, talk back shows,
AND survival (of debilitated),
watch out my friend ; this silent mental creep is the worst kind,
since Romans invented games and bread for populus .
Gelies normally agile gray core to a pudding,
try J.S.B's overtures for a change.
Hey, forgot , once i "modified" ol' Singer sewing machine,
with a fret saw wire blade (diamonised hspeed wire, omnidirectional),
when i did not have the money for the modern
marquetry veneer cutters .
Send your poodle for a bone under fret saw marquetry venner cutting,
wire saws, etc.,
the reciprocating (keep yo head out) arms have about a foot side room,
fith finest wire guided under stretch in the V grove yo may get away
in low volumes even on hire .
Make sure of side slide guide .
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen R. Gregory [mailto:[log in to unmask]]
Sent: Tuesday, 29 August 2000 11:55
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: [TN] Depanelizing boards within a "RCH"...
Hi all!
I got another "opportunity"...we may be getting some boards in here that are
in a 2-up panel, that are polyimide, that have to be depanelized. "So whutz
yer problem Steve?"
Problem is that there are traces that run .015" from the edge of the
board...nifty huh?
The boards are scored within that dimension, but it was learned that
snapping
them out isn't a solution, or is using a machine called a "Maestro" (I can't
remember the company that makes them), or one from "Radoll Designs", that
follow along the score lines to separate the boards. They say that they've
tried these tools and that this results in innerlayer separations because of
the brittle-ness of the polyimide material...I can understand that.
So they say it needs to be cut with a diamond saw, again, I understand
that...polyimide laminate is some tough stuff to cut. So I went on a search
for diamond saws...got a bunch of hits that have saws to cut ceramic tile,
and lapidary tools to cut jewelry stones and such, but nothing that I've
found that convinces me that I'll be able to set this board up in and be
able
to be repeatable within .015"...it seems now I'll have to try and eyeball
everything with something like a rip fence. The systems that I've seen also
all have oil or water cooling systems for the blades that will douch the
boards with liquid from the saws that I don't think is a good idea to do...
I know, I know...this is asking a lot...such is my life...but is there
anything out there that any of you know of that can do this? For less than
$5K?
Customer says that they'll be getting away from panelized designs sometime
soon, but not soon enough to not have to build panelized boards for a
while...guess this stuff is why I have a job...
If I figure out how to do this, I'll let ya'll know...if I'm still
sane...and
can type on my keyboard...
-Steve Gregory-
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