Steve:
For small areas a wide blade soldering iron tip is the best,
specially if used in conjunction with a black light to see the progress. It
comes off as butter, really.
Regards,
Ramon
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Gregory [SMTP:[log in to unmask]]
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 6:34 PM
> To: [log in to unmask]
> Subject: Re: [TN] Urethane Coating Spot Removal...
>
> Hi Graham!
>
> You would strip the whole board? There are wires already on some of these
> assemblies, that's been tacked down with RTV, and practically every
> assembly has socketed components, along with right angle interconnecting
> female sockets, wouldn't one worry about getting the stripping chemistry
> trapped inside these small areas?
>
> I've heard more than just a few times that whatever chemistry works well
> in stripping urethanes, also poses a risk in affecting the laminate, and
> part marking...something that we can't afford even risking.
>
> That's why I'm looking at spot removal. I've been looking at a CCR Company
> workstation, the same one that Jim Marsico has, and emailed him off-line
> with some questions. He really likes it.
>
> Just wondering if anybody else has a system that they would like to share
> some details about with me, good or bad, off-line if need be.
>
> As always, Thanks in advance!!
>
> -Steve Gregory-
>
>
>
>
> Hello friends, busy week so sorry for a late input.
>
> I have only one piece of advice for Steve and others regarding
> repairs to Urethane based coatings - it is very difficult to return to a
> monolithic film as Urethane systems tend to laminate.
>
> The repair coating will therefore need to be applied to a far wider
> area than that "spot" you fixed. It is possible that the 'lamination" will
> be a path for ingrees of the stuff you are trying to keep out.
>
> It is for this reason that Acrylics are more popular, because they
> will more readily return to monolithic film....and before anyone asks, no,
> you should not repair a urethane with an acrylic. The product has a
> coating that was carefully selected and qualified. Same generic type but
> different supplier MIGHT be OK, but you MUST check this with the
> originator.
>
> Our route in this situation is to fully strip using a suitable
> solvent stripper bath - clean, repair, re-clean and then re-coat. It is
> easier and it looks better.
>
> Hope this helps
> --
> Regards Graham Naisbitt
>
> [log in to unmask]
>
> Cell: 079 6858 2121
> Office: +44 (0)1252 813706
>
> Concoat Limited - Engineering Reliability in Electronics
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -Steve Gregory-
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