If you want to introduce unreliability into your system, then by all means solder the crimped connections.
Many years ago I fought this battle, and won, with the aid of a document from Amp. I think Steve Gregory posted it on his Homestead web site.
The theory is that with a properly sized wire/crimp combination you form a gas tight mechanical weld. Adding solder creates a stiff failure point where the solder ends and the unsoldered wire begins.
The one exception we have is for Litz wire. This is wire comprised of many small strands of enamel insulated wire that must be stripped to make a connection. Chemical stripping is one solution, but the added problems of removing 100% of the stripping chemical and chemical hazards make this a non-preferred solution. Instead we tin the wire ends in a solder pot that burns off all the enamel and nylon serve (thread "jacket"). And yes, we do get failures with this method on the smaller gauge wires (26-34 gauge) if we flex them too many times. Typically these wires are only used in inductors, chokes or transformers where the wires are terminated and no longer see flexing once terminated. For the larger 10 AWG Litz, once tinned, it might as well be steel for the stiffness it develops.
Phil Nutting
Design for Manufacturing Engineer
Kaiser Systems, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: TechNet [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Graham Collins
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2012 6:27 AM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [TN] Crimp/Solder Lugs for DLO 535 MCM Cable
Excellent article! In the sailboat world the myth of soldering crimped connections is healthy and thriving, it drives me nuts. But that is what you get with a large DIY crowd and some dockside "experts"...
Thanks Steve.
regards,
- Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: TechNet [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Steve Gregory
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2012 7:47 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [TN] Crimp/Solder Lugs for DLO 535 MCM Cable
John,
After looking around a bit, you really shouldn't solder a crimped connection, you could very well be compromising the crimp itself, and cause more problems than if you just left the crimp alone (assuming it was a proper crimp to begin with). Here's a article from Jim Dunbar a Product Manager for Terminals and Splices, and Senior Product Engineer Tom Michielutti of Tyco that spells it out:
http://www.newark.com/pdfs/techarticles/tyco/ET.pdf
Look down at the bottom of page 4...
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Gregory
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2012 6:01 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [TN] Crimp/Solder Lugs for DLO 535 MCM Cable
John,
I always thought that you didn't solder a crimped connection. But if this is a requirement, then probably the best way to go about this is to get yourself an American Beauty...
An American Beauty Resistance soldering unit that is, a model 10577 ought to do the trick:
https://www.americanbeautytools.com/site/models/rs/109/features
There's even a Youtube video of it in action:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7vNQki7UgQ&feature=relmfu
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: John Anselmo
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2012 4:36 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: [TN] Crimp/Solder Lugs for DLO 535 MCM Cable
Ok, we need to solder the lugs (after crimping) for a 535MCM DLO Cable.
What's the easiest way to do this?
Thanks,
John
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